Friday, December 19, 2008
Blind tasting at Dan S.'s house
My group met Tuesday night in Westchester. The usual theme, with the host supplying all the wines and serving them blind.
Usually we start out with a sparkler, but this time Dan brought out three whites. The first was, in my opinion, slightly oxidized; there was a burst of good flavors up front but a heavy burned taste came out on the finish. That did recede some with time. Most agreed it was a classic Sauvignon Blanc.
Wine #2 was a little shorter than #1, but a totally classic (and excellent) white Burgundy. At least, that's what I got out of it; Gilman (who was on fire that night) pegged it correctly as Meursault.
The third wine was also slightly oxidizing, some tropical fruits, and a heavy banana taste. Some cared for this more than I did, but others liked it even less. If I were in the habit of scoring wines I'd rate it about an 84.
1) Sancerre Grande Cote Pascot Cotat 2000
2) Meursault Goutte d'Or Henri Boillot 2000
3) Haut Brion Blanc 1994
A second flight of whites followed. The first seemed like a slightly oxidizing white Burgundy, lowish acidity, reasonable flavors, not too much oak (good!). The second was quite good, if seeming a touch disjointed, with a nice lemony nose, but a slightly heavy, honeyed palate (perhaps another sign of early oxidation setting in?). Gilman again identified Meursault almost immediately.
1) Stony Hill Chardonnay 2005
2) Meursault Chevalieres JP Fichet 2005
Now it was time for Champagne. This one was a rose, very dense and closed down on the palate, with clearly outstanding potential but not giving up a ton at the moment. I thought it might be Dom Perignon Rose 1996. Turned out to be Dom Ruinart Rose 1996.
Our first flight of reds began with two wines that were pretty easily identifiable as Burgundy. I continued my vintage-guessing streak by identifying 1998. The first was very herbal and tannic, but with some really nice earthy flavors; it was pretty closed down but I'd love to try it again in a decade or so. The other was really pretty, open, lots of cherry fruit. I thought it was excellent.
1) Chambolle-Musigny Fuees JF Mugnier 1998
2) Chambolle-Musigny Gruenchers Fourrier 1998
Next up were two more reds, where I was again in Burgundy on both. The first was starting to fall apart a bit but still quite nice, earthy, with good ripe fruit. The other was a little madeirized, a touch sweet, and not very good.
1) Corton Pougets Louis Jadot 1990
2) Chateau Musar 1991
I have some responsibility for the Musar; I introduced our host to it a few months ago by blinding him on the 1991, which showed brilliantly, and he immediately went out and bought several vintages. Well, I did warn him that they're notoriously variable.
I quite liked our next wine, which was a touch green and not quite at peak yet, but developing some complexity and clearly extremely well made. I thought its companion was corked. I believe that was a minority view, although I was not in a minority of one.
1) Vieux Chateau Certan 1990
2) Lenz Merlot 1995 (corked?)
A flight of three was up next. The first was earthy, rustic, with some coffee notes. I should have been quicker to figure out what this was. The other was many tasters' wine of the night. Mark and I both said "Graves" as soon as we lifted our glasses, as the cigar and saddle leather coming off the glass were unmistakeable. I thought it was an '82, with all that sweet fruit. Alas, our third bottle was corked.
1) Chateau Magdelaine 1970
2) Chateau Pape Clement 1964
3) Chateau Certan de May 1979 (corked)
The next and last flight, of two wines, opened with a leathery, sweet, very good wine that also showed some tobacco. Its companion was corked, but another took its place. When it was first poured I thought it was all anise; I was told I was wrong. Cherry and gamy notes came out and after a few minutes with it, Mark identified it as a Chave (on his first guess). A mouth-coating wine with a lot of tannin, but developing nicely from my previous encounter with it, when I thought the oak was too obtrusive (that was 7 years ago).
1) Chateau La Mission Haut Brion 1981
2) Mouton 1987 (corked)
3) Ermitage Cuvee Cathelin JL Chave 1990
Many thanks to our host for everything and especially for pulling a treasure like the Cuvee Cathelin as a last-minute replacement!
Usually we start out with a sparkler, but this time Dan brought out three whites. The first was, in my opinion, slightly oxidized; there was a burst of good flavors up front but a heavy burned taste came out on the finish. That did recede some with time. Most agreed it was a classic Sauvignon Blanc.
Wine #2 was a little shorter than #1, but a totally classic (and excellent) white Burgundy. At least, that's what I got out of it; Gilman (who was on fire that night) pegged it correctly as Meursault.
The third wine was also slightly oxidizing, some tropical fruits, and a heavy banana taste. Some cared for this more than I did, but others liked it even less. If I were in the habit of scoring wines I'd rate it about an 84.
1) Sancerre Grande Cote Pascot Cotat 2000
2) Meursault Goutte d'Or Henri Boillot 2000
3) Haut Brion Blanc 1994
A second flight of whites followed. The first seemed like a slightly oxidizing white Burgundy, lowish acidity, reasonable flavors, not too much oak (good!). The second was quite good, if seeming a touch disjointed, with a nice lemony nose, but a slightly heavy, honeyed palate (perhaps another sign of early oxidation setting in?). Gilman again identified Meursault almost immediately.
1) Stony Hill Chardonnay 2005
2) Meursault Chevalieres JP Fichet 2005
Now it was time for Champagne. This one was a rose, very dense and closed down on the palate, with clearly outstanding potential but not giving up a ton at the moment. I thought it might be Dom Perignon Rose 1996. Turned out to be Dom Ruinart Rose 1996.
Our first flight of reds began with two wines that were pretty easily identifiable as Burgundy. I continued my vintage-guessing streak by identifying 1998. The first was very herbal and tannic, but with some really nice earthy flavors; it was pretty closed down but I'd love to try it again in a decade or so. The other was really pretty, open, lots of cherry fruit. I thought it was excellent.
1) Chambolle-Musigny Fuees JF Mugnier 1998
2) Chambolle-Musigny Gruenchers Fourrier 1998
Next up were two more reds, where I was again in Burgundy on both. The first was starting to fall apart a bit but still quite nice, earthy, with good ripe fruit. The other was a little madeirized, a touch sweet, and not very good.
1) Corton Pougets Louis Jadot 1990
2) Chateau Musar 1991
I have some responsibility for the Musar; I introduced our host to it a few months ago by blinding him on the 1991, which showed brilliantly, and he immediately went out and bought several vintages. Well, I did warn him that they're notoriously variable.
I quite liked our next wine, which was a touch green and not quite at peak yet, but developing some complexity and clearly extremely well made. I thought its companion was corked. I believe that was a minority view, although I was not in a minority of one.
1) Vieux Chateau Certan 1990
2) Lenz Merlot 1995 (corked?)
A flight of three was up next. The first was earthy, rustic, with some coffee notes. I should have been quicker to figure out what this was. The other was many tasters' wine of the night. Mark and I both said "Graves" as soon as we lifted our glasses, as the cigar and saddle leather coming off the glass were unmistakeable. I thought it was an '82, with all that sweet fruit. Alas, our third bottle was corked.
1) Chateau Magdelaine 1970
2) Chateau Pape Clement 1964
3) Chateau Certan de May 1979 (corked)
The next and last flight, of two wines, opened with a leathery, sweet, very good wine that also showed some tobacco. Its companion was corked, but another took its place. When it was first poured I thought it was all anise; I was told I was wrong. Cherry and gamy notes came out and after a few minutes with it, Mark identified it as a Chave (on his first guess). A mouth-coating wine with a lot of tannin, but developing nicely from my previous encounter with it, when I thought the oak was too obtrusive (that was 7 years ago).
1) Chateau La Mission Haut Brion 1981
2) Mouton 1987 (corked)
3) Ermitage Cuvee Cathelin JL Chave 1990
Many thanks to our host for everything and especially for pulling a treasure like the Cuvee Cathelin as a last-minute replacement!
